Chicago Business

Issue date: 5/3/07 Section: GSB Life

BEFORE BRAIDS

AFTER BRAIDS

A few weeks ago, I had a three-inch afro. Now, I have 18-inch braids. I am sure that you are all interested in my miracle growth cream. If I had a hair growing cream that improved hair growth by 500% in two weeks…I would win the New Venture Challenge, launch an IPO, and name room 219 Janelle's Palace. Alas, I digress. The remainder of this article will be focused on demystifying black women's hair. Disclaimer: Though I will from this point forward be referring to black hair, please note that black women have widely different types of hair. It would require a book to give all of these types justice. Hopefully the following information will be beneficial to all - as we begin to work for top firms striving to increase diversity, some of your coworkers will likely be black women sporting black hair.
America's first black female millionaire, Madam C.J. Walker (1876 - 1919), made her fortune by inventing hair care products specifically tailored to black women. This self-made millionaire also had a hand at revolutionizing the way black women styled their hair by combining the use of the hot comb with her hair care products. Madam CJ Walker's understanding of black hair created an empire. Hopefully by discussing some attributes and connotations, this article may save you from asking silly questions like the one I recently heard: "Can you pull hair from your head and make it grow?"
Hair washing: No. Most Black women do NOT wash their hair daily. If we did, our hair would become extremely brittle, assume a straw-like texture, and break off. We often have to add oil to our hair to make sure that it receives nutrients for growth and sheen. On average, we may wash our hair every one to two weeks.
Press: A hot comb - pressing comb- is heated over a flame (gas or electric oven). The comb is then used to 'press' the natural curls out of the hair, resulting in straight hair. It is also possible to burn the hair if the comb is too hot. This is a temporary process, so if the hair is exposed to any liquid (water, humidity, perspiration), the hair will revert to its natural state.
Perms: "Perm" means to straighten. The natural hair usually has a tight curly texture (some times referred to as nappy).
A perm chemically alters the hairs attributes and makes the hair straight. Perms are usually applied every 4 - 6 weeks and women usually wait for ¼ - ½ inch of new growth before touching up their perms. A white paste is applied to the new growth for 12 - 20 minutes. If the paste is left on too long, the scalp will begin to tingle and burn. Once hair has been permed, it won't return its normal state for some time (perm = permanent).


Haircuts: Hair cuts are never...NEVER…to be done wet! Hair should be cut if and only if the hair is dry. When the hair is wet, it contracts; hair, that when wet appears to be 2 inches long, can straighten to be 5 inches long. If a black woman receives a haircut while her hair is wet, she will not he happy with the result once it dries.
Extensions/Weaves: Before addressing this topic, protocol must be established. Under no circumstances is it okay to tell a woman "Nice weave." Weaves and extensions are not unique to black hair. Nonetheless, weaves are often used to facilitate hair growth, create a different look, or just to have fun. I sat 7 hours to get my hair braided because the expected benefits exceeded the costs (opportunity and financial). My hair will grow more in braids. I no longer have to do my hair. I can sleep on my hair, wake up, and leave the house with few steps in between. I am not worried about moisture (rain or sweat) changing the appearance of my hair.
Now, a question may arise. Why do women, especially those in the Black community, invest so much time into their hair? Many women choose to change their hair for a variety of factors ranging from split ends and personal expression to securing employment. As I interviewed for internships, some of my colleagues suggested that I alter the natural texture of my hair to increase my chances of gaining employment. Obviously at some firms, it is best when you look as much like your coworkers as possible. But I think some of the diversity that we strive to achieve is lost if we require everyone to subjugate their appearance just to fit in.
I am a fan of celebrating all hair: beautiful, short, long, straight, curly, upstanding, and long flowing. Hair, this article salutes you!

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